6. Not choosing the right component parts

   

Sometimes it’s about letting our creative side of the brain take over from our practical side. and we chose aesthetics over function. That’s why it’s a great idea to walk through the project with your installer to make sure what you are visualizing will work and that you have the right parts to mak it work. 

Sometimes we order 2″ rings from one vendor and a 2″ pole from another vendor and wonder why they won’t fit. This  happens more often with finials so get to know your finials! Each finial is unique in dimensions. You need to know the width, height and depth of the finial as it will add to the finished width of your treatment and could affect the bracket projection as well as final hanging heights.Some finials will add more weight than others. Check to make sure you have enough space to use your desired finial and that you have enough space to mount the hardware- think ceiling mounts.  Some finials mount over the end of the pole – others mount flush to the  end of the pole. You need to know how the finial mounts as it can affect finished widths.

Two more tips- Treatments that will be tied back should always have a concealed tieback holder. Eliminate crushing and create a straight return edge with concealed tieback holders.

 

 

Make sure you choose the correct pin for your treatment. There are several different types of pins.- know when to use each type. Pins can be categorized as light duty, regular duty or heavy duty pins. Regular duty pins can be used for sheers, but lined or lined and interlined treatments should use heavy duty pins. Pins also have pointed or round tops. Round tops are used for curtain rods or ctm tracks. Pointed tops are for traverse rods, traversing systems and architectural tracks.

7. Not ordering the right number of pieces.

Especially ordering the correct amount of brackets and rings. First, it’s important to pre plan where you want to place your brackets. Even if you are doing stationery panels; do you want a bracket in the center or do you want to hide the bracket between the 2nd and 3rd ring from the leading edge? 

Brackets should be spaced 36” – 40” apart. Every rod needs a bracket at each end and some may need additional bracket(s) in the middle. You will always need additional  brackets at splices, bends and angles. Do  you have enough brackets for the overall treatment weight? It’s is also helpful to understand Bracket to Bracket Maximum.It is the length of a section of rod between two brackets, sometimes called a “span”  to the point where the rod will sag or bow without a center support. Rods increase in rigidity as they increase in diameter. The larger the diameter of the rod;  the more hanging weight with less brackets. As an example, a  ½” rod’s  maximum  suggested span is 70”. A 1” rod’s maximum suggested span is 90″.

Do you have enough rings? The number of pleats is not the correct number of rings to order. Don’t forget about the ring for the leading edge. Another thing to keep in mind have you ordered everything you need when working with specialty applications or accessory pieces. I like to order more than I think I need just in case something arrives damaged, or was miscounts, etc.

8. Not getting the returns, clearances and projections correct

Projection is the distance from wall to face of bracket or the center of rod. Rod clearance is the distance from back of rod to the wall. The larger the rod diameter; the smaller the clearance.  A 2-1/4” rod with 3-1/2” projection  has a rod clearance of 2-1/2”. To complicate matters, deep woodwork or hard treatments appearing unexpectedly at the installation can present problems. Will your chosen bracket work for the needed projection/return? Bottom line is don’t skimp on your clearances. Proper projection and clearance projection allows the layers to clear each other and hang correctly.  When deciding how much area you want to cover, you also should make the decision if you will be layering- sometimes the blind is there and you know you will be. A rule of thumb is to add 3″ to your projection every time you add a layer. Think 3” 6” 9” when layering a window.  Layers on the same rod will have the same rod face width. DO NOT SKIMP ON ROD FACE/ BOARD FACE OR RETURNS WHEN LAYERING. If an over drapery is on separate rod add 4” minimum to rod face width of your under drapery.

9. Not solving the problem by finding the right solution.

Start swiping visuals, tips or tricks that can serve as memory jogs or sales tools when working with your clients. Would building pockets to house your heavy duty tracks and multiple width draperies work better than valances and traverse rods?

Here’s three ideas to get you started:

1. Have trouble with rings sticking when hand drawn? Try Duralee’s glide tape. This tape provides a slick surface for rings to smoothly ride across the rod. It adheres to wood, metal, iron and plastic and when applied becomes transparent.

2. This solves those installation challenges with those pesky wood brackets we all hate.

3. Use extra traverse rod slides to hook your return pin to wall.

10. Not thinking out of the box.

Whether its a finish, technique  or unique look don’t downplay drapery hardware. Play it up!

Think custom color- Orion will color match your fabric swatches, trims or wallpaper swatches.

Marina Goldberg, Klima Design Group, took it up a notch with her out -of -the- box thinking and Orion’s embossed cornices she customized.

Understanding the Language of Drapery Hardware: Measuring

When beginning your custom window treatment project, it’s not only about measuring; its also about learning the terminology for all the component parts – drapery hardware, fabrics, fabrication and more.  And it’s also about assessing the potential project’s situation.Designers should know everything about drapery hardware in order to better design window treatments. That way you’ll never design something that can’t be installed.  Make sure you leave enough time to access the window and the space around it before you even start to measure. After all, you have to make sure that you can actually install the window fashion in your head. Your eye is drawn to the windows first when you walk into a room. So, study the bare window to assess its shape and merits/needs.

First, ask yourself what type of window am I dealing with? Are the windows square? Inspect window and note obstacles, ducts, cranks, screens, etc.

Second, consider the space around the window. Are there security systems? Is the window centered on the wall? Are there obstructions? Vents? Cranks? Can I mount my drapery hardware where I want to? The bottom line-Is there space to do what you want to do?

Third, is your design intent congruent with the room it will be in? What kind of treatment are you using? Can the Design be executed the way you intend?  Does my drapery hardware choice match my treatment style? Once you noted your answers on your measuring notes; you’re ready to start measuring the window.

When you are measuring the window for soft window coverings, regardless of finished length, width, drapery hardware choices, etc. it is important to understand the measurements that will need to be taken and the terminology that will be used. Let’s tackle some of the terminology before we get into the nuts and bolts.

 

Rod Face is the measurement from one end of drapery rod to the other; excluding finials. Sometimes it’s called Bracket to Bracket. The Bracket to Bracket Maximum, sometimes called span is the point where the rod will sag or bow without a center support. So, with a one way draw drapery on a 2” wood pole; the maximum is 72” Where and how you place the rod and brackets could be critical.

Projection is the distance from wall to face of bracket or the center of drapery rod. This measurement comes into play when doing more than one layer. The rule of thumb is to add 3” every time you add a layer to your window treatment design.

Rod Clearance is the distance from back of the drapery rod to the wall. The larger the rod; the smaller the clearance. Why should you be familiar with rod clearance?  Deep woodwork and hard treatments under the soft treatment can present problems. For example, a 2-1/4” rod with 3-1/2” clearance has rod clearance of 2-1/2”. Knowing your rod clearance will help you specify the correct brackets.  You can deduct ½ of rod diameter from the return measurement to get the clearance.

Once you know what the rod clearances will be for your window treatment design, you can decide if there is enough room to do all the layers you would like to use and specify the returns. The Return is the end of the heading on a panel that wraps around to the wall and hides the bracket and rod projection. A return is a fabric measurement totaling the rod projection + ½”.

 

It is important for you to take the measures so that you are intimately familiar with the window as you design and specify and that you can talk intelligently to members of your team if questions or issues come up. It is important to be focused on measuring when you measure. If you are more worried about making the sale or uncomfortable with taking the measure during your sales call; make sure you add a remeasure into your  pricing and time as you move forward.

Sometimes it is also a good idea to schedule your installer to take measurements and to you accompany him for more intricate projects. This saves time, mistakes and helps define the final design details and installation.

Measuring

Taking time to take even the non-essential measures will assure a successful end result.

• Never assume that windows that look identical are.
• Always use a steel tape
• Measure in sequential manner left to right
• Measure to nearest 1/8”- draperies
• Measure every window
• Measure width first; then length
• Measure from the glass out
• Use standard measuring forms

Take all the measures no matter if they are needed for each window or not. Some frequently missed items are:

• Details are not spelled out. You know them, but you must make sure your team knows them
• Finish
• Bracket to Bracket measurement

Finally, here are the Bakers Dozen must-have measures to design and specify custom window treatments.

 

I was flipping through the pages of this month’s (July/August) Traditional Home, as always checking out the window treatments in the feature articles when what did I see…! On page 110-111, Orion’s Wood Art in a stunning family room by Sherrill Canet of Sherrill Canet Interiors of New York, NY. The family room was in last year’s Hamptons Showhouse and she made a sprawling space intimate by creating two seating areas- one by the bay window and another by the French doors.

The centerpiece was an oversized ottoman in a great ikat print in pink and black. The same print came up the drapery panels leading edges. Speaking of draperies- the euro pleated draperies were hung from our Wood Art poles and rings in white wash finish with Ornate Flute finials. Shout out to Sherril for a spectacular room and for choosing Orion Iron Art. If we can help you with your next showhouse project- give us a call, we love to do custom projects!

Speaking of iron, check out the aluminum laser cut panel in hot pink in the window. Playing off the geometric wallpaper and bringing a burst of color on the window, it’s  in a really unique way to do window treatments. LOVE IT!

About Sherrill Canet

Sherrill Canet, the principal designer of Sherrill Canet Interiors, is in high demand by clients and architects for her fresh and elegant approach to traditional style.  Sherrill Canet is noted for her ability to create stunning interiors incorporating her love of antiques, custom fittings and fine detail into gracious, comfortable and remarkable settings Sherrill Canet