6. Not choosing the right component parts
Sometimes it’s about letting our creative side of the brain take over from our practical side. and we chose aesthetics over function. That’s why it’s a great idea to walk through the project with your installer to make sure what you are visualizing will work and that you have the right parts to mak it work.
Sometimes we order 2″ rings from one vendor and a 2″ pole from another vendor and wonder why they won’t fit. This happens more often with finials so get to know your finials! Each finial is unique in dimensions. You need to know the width, height and depth of the finial as it will add to the finished width of your treatment and could affect the bracket projection as well as final hanging heights.Some finials will add more weight than others. Check to make sure you have enough space to use your desired finial and that you have enough space to mount the hardware- think ceiling mounts. Some finials mount over the end of the pole – others mount flush to the end of the pole. You need to know how the finial mounts as it can affect finished widths.
Two more tips- Treatments that will be tied back should always have a concealed tieback holder. Eliminate crushing and create a straight return edge with concealed tieback holders.
Make sure you choose the correct pin for your treatment. There are several different types of pins.- know when to use each type. Pins can be categorized as light duty, regular duty or heavy duty pins. Regular duty pins can be used for sheers, but lined or lined and interlined treatments should use heavy duty pins. Pins also have pointed or round tops. Round tops are used for curtain rods or ctm tracks. Pointed tops are for traverse rods, traversing systems and architectural tracks.
7. Not ordering the right number of pieces.
Especially ordering the correct amount of brackets and rings. First, it’s important to pre plan where you want to place your brackets. Even if you are doing stationery panels; do you want a bracket in the center or do you want to hide the bracket between the 2nd and 3rd ring from the leading edge?
Brackets should be spaced 36” – 40” apart. Every rod needs a bracket at each end and some may need additional bracket(s) in the middle. You will always need additional brackets at splices, bends and angles. Do you have enough brackets for the overall treatment weight? It’s is also helpful to understand Bracket to Bracket Maximum.It is the length of a section of rod between two brackets, sometimes called a “span” to the point where the rod will sag or bow without a center support. Rods increase in rigidity as they increase in diameter. The larger the diameter of the rod; the more hanging weight with less brackets. As an example, a ½” rod’s maximum suggested span is 70”. A 1” rod’s maximum suggested span is 90″.
Do you have enough rings? The number of pleats is not the correct number of rings to order. Don’t forget about the ring for the leading edge. Another thing to keep in mind have you ordered everything you need when working with specialty applications or accessory pieces. I like to order more than I think I need just in case something arrives damaged, or was miscounts, etc.
8. Not getting the returns, clearances and projections correct
Projection is the distance from wall to face of bracket or the center of rod. Rod clearance is the distance from back of rod to the wall. The larger the rod diameter; the smaller the clearance. A 2-1/4” rod with 3-1/2” projection has a rod clearance of 2-1/2”. To complicate matters, deep woodwork or hard treatments appearing unexpectedly at the installation can present problems. Will your chosen bracket work for the needed projection/return? Bottom line is don’t skimp on your clearances. Proper projection and clearance projection allows the layers to clear each other and hang correctly. When deciding how much area you want to cover, you also should make the decision if you will be layering- sometimes the blind is there and you know you will be. A rule of thumb is to add 3″ to your projection every time you add a layer. Think 3” 6” 9” when layering a window. Layers on the same rod will have the same rod face width. DO NOT SKIMP ON ROD FACE/ BOARD FACE OR RETURNS WHEN LAYERING. If an over drapery is on separate rod add 4” minimum to rod face width of your under drapery.
9. Not solving the problem by finding the right solution.
Start swiping visuals, tips or tricks that can serve as memory jogs or sales tools when working with your clients. Would building pockets to house your heavy duty tracks and multiple width draperies work better than valances and traverse rods?
Here’s three ideas to get you started:
1. Have trouble with rings sticking when hand drawn? Try Duralee’s glide tape. This tape provides a slick surface for rings to smoothly ride across the rod. It adheres to wood, metal, iron and plastic and when applied becomes transparent.
2. This solves those installation challenges with those pesky wood brackets we all hate.
3. Use extra traverse rod slides to hook your return pin to wall.
10. Not thinking out of the box.
Whether its a finish, technique or unique look don’t downplay drapery hardware. Play it up!
Think custom color- Orion will color match your fabric swatches, trims or wallpaper swatches.
Marina Goldberg, Klima Design Group, took it up a notch with her out -of -the- box thinking and Orion’s embossed cornices she customized.